Plan a quiet start
Ask the desk for a flask of coffee the night before. The ferry stop is a short lakeside walk away, and tickets are available on board.
Try the open deck at the stern. On the left, the first light begins to reach the mountains.
Continue to Varenna for an unhurried shore walk, then return for breakfast. A small outing can reveal a very different side of the lake.
This adapted story and its characters illustrate the template experience.
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